Yesterday, though, is a different story. I've been getting my hopes up for Saturday all week. Here is the background. We received an invitation, at Child Care, for an event happening at one of the board member's houses. After some inquiring I found out that it was a special event. The board member's father had passed away a year ago. They bury the body and mourn. A year later, they have another funeral and a remembrance for the person, which happened on Wednesday. On Friday, they slaughter a cow. On Saturday, they invite the community to a big, lack of a better word, party to eat and drink. The point is to celebrate the person who died and let the deceased know that we remember him. Obviously I was excited. A Zulu custom that incorporated drinking and eating is exactly something I'm down for.
I woke up on Saturday, went for a run (my first one in this country...a little rough), watched tv and got picked up around 2:30 pm. It was about 10 mins out of town in a rural area. The road leading up to the house wasn't even paved. There were two big tents, a house and a few smaller houses/huts. The place was packed, though, with around 150 people. Maybe more. I arrived with my co workers and instantly was nervous. Everyone was looking at me because I was definitely out of place. I went with the flow and followed my co-workers to the food line. That's when Spu came up to me and told me to come sit with him at a table. That already made me feel better. To know someone else who had friends provided encouragement. I found the table and ate my food, which was very good. A beef curry, which is very similar to my mother's dry meat, rice, potato salad, beets, salad and pumpkin. It was all fantastic! I was greeted by 8 other guys at the table. I immediately struck up a conversation with a gentleman named Stix. He was already drunk so I knew this was going to be good. We discussed America, South Africa, Zulu customs, music, everything! He became a good friend through out the night.
Let me tell you. Alcohol was the focus of the night! It was always on hand. I had SA beer, Heineken, Zulu beer, Johnny Walker, Chivas and Jameson. Jesus...that was a lot of alcohol. I then met Pa...something. He was that drunk guy that everyone loves. He refused to speak to me in English, only in Zulu. I impressed him with what Zulu I already knew and we hit it off. They then brought us meat from the cow that was cooked in water and salt. Along with the meat was a simple bread that was also cooked in the broth. They were all impressed with my eagerness and willingness to dig in with the rest of them. The next 6 hours were a blur. I drank a lot. A LOT. I learned that is custom with the Zulu beer to take a sip before passing. When passing, it is important to pass with both hands. Otherwise it is as if you don't care and are just saying, "F- it, here have this." I quickly learned to follow this custom. I got to know all of the guys around my table very easily. I became friends and was exchanging numbers/emails and taking pictures with them. After more drinks, I was learning Zulu songs and singing along with all of them.
There was also a BIG match on the tv between the Orlando Pirates and the Kaiser Chiefs, the two biggest soccer teams in SA. Half the party was split between the two teams. The Pirates won and the Chiefs fans were not too happy. Once it started getting darker, we moved to another tent where music had started to play. If you know me, that is pure joy. I wanted to play it cool, though, and provide a little surprise for this group. I didn't want to let them know that I am not too shabby on the dance floor. I was led to the heart of the tent and took a seat. Soon, I was pulled up to dance, though. I then showed them what I had. And they ate it up! People I hadn't even met that night were taking pictures of me. This little boy was taking a video of me dancing on his phone! This older lady pointed me over and I danced with her for a bit! Man oh man...that was fun.
I was then pulled aside by Spu's friend, who we had dropped off in the hood last weekend, to go somewhere. I was nervous because it was away from the party and I didn't know where my friends before tonight were. I kept my guard up. We went to a small little hut and I saw people I had met through out the night sitting around in a circle. I joined them, poured a scotch (do my father proud) and started chatting. More and more people started coming in. I realized this was purely a hang out. No tv, no music, no distractions. Just singing, talking and...alcohol. I learned that all of these people come from poor backgrounds and this was their way of getting away from everything else and just sing their songs and be themselves with no worries. I relished in the situation that I was in. I sat there and watched as the only outsider to this hang out session. I loved it! I had learned a song earlier and Pa...whatever would come up to me, I would sing it and the entire room would laugh/sing along!
My ride was leaving, the rain was pouring and the electricity went out so I had to say goodbye. I now have someone coming to visit me in America, whenever he can make it (sorry Kerri). I have an invitation to go to a wedding next weekend. I have made some new, great friends. All from one day at a Zulu party. This was truly something special and I am so grateful to have had this experience. Yesterday has easily made this whole three month trip worth it. It is days, like yesterday, that I will look back on and remember for the rest of my life.
In the middle of the table is the meat from the cow and the bread. In the glass pitcher is the Zulu beer. Then there are some other beverages being consumed.
Here, I swear I was only drinking it to respect the culture. The other times, well...that was because I was having a good time.
My new friend Stix and I.
Here is Stix and Captain. The guy in the back wearing the white hat was Pa...something.
A pic of one of the tents at the end of the night. This was right before it started to pour rain and the electricity went out.





V, such a charmer!
ReplyDeleteI hope you'll share those Zulu songs when you return!